A NICE REVIEW FROM DAVID DREW

On a recent and enjoyable trip to Salida Colorado the inevitable question of sustenance reared its hungry head. Often on a journey the choices of where and how to dine are either multifarious and confusing or threadbare and debilitating. Here we were directed to a small restaurant of noble repute by a local inn-keeper, called 'The Laughing Ladies.' Despite the town's name, meaning 'exit' in Spanish, it is small but warm and welcoming, with a generous sprinkling of art and craft galleries, coffee shops and beautiful smiling folk. Before dining we convened at 'Hatties' on 225 First street for drinks; they have a short but excellent selection of locally brewed beers, home cooked grub and I detected, the air of generous Irish hospitality.

Not yet fully intoxicated we ambled over to 128 West First Street, where our restaurant is situated; not a long or difficult maneuver. You might always assess the reputation of an eatery by its popularity, and this Friday night it was steaming busy, a glorious blend of chatting locals, delicious kitchen aromas, rushing waitresses, and a dancing chef... altogether an animated atmosphere. Despite the excited air that fills the dining room there is sense of relaxation and casual enjoyment, this is a restaurant that anticipates the unusual demands of its artistic clientele.

The Laughing Ladies is aptly named after the women of doubtful repute who entertained the hardworking men that made Salida their home in the early days; as prospectors, miners, cowboys and farmers. The menu is a cosmopolitan blend of European, American and South-Western cuisine which delighted our palates with ingenuity, the delicate and considerate use of seasonings invigorated us like a flirtatious slap on the cheeks. This place is no 'fools gold' but a sparkling gem hidden in a small town; most often overlooked or missed by the hasty traveler, but obviously greatly valued and adored by the locals whose taste extends beyond their provinces. Laughing Ladies has a hearty bistro feel about it. The waiting staff constantly jog to keep pace with the constant flow of customers; it could easily fail and come crashing down in a tidal wave of chaos but somehow manages to fall into a perfectly orchestrated symphony of enjoyment. This is of the type that could compete with the best on offer in New York, London or Paris.

The Californian chef, Jeff Schweitzer, knows his clients well, fulfilling their innermost desire for culinary gratification, exceeding their expectations and sustaining appetites with provocative, sensual and often orgasmic creations. What a distinguished evening we had there, feeling honored in a hostel of congeniality. This is certainly not the place to be shy or reserved... the Laughing Ladies demands your full and undivided attention, and it could become addictive. We stuck with the entrée's; I had the honey grilled pork chop with roasted sweet potatoes, apple/fennel salad, hickory bacon and a slightly spicy ancho-chile glace. Tender, not too sweet and balanced with the tartness of the salad, it inspired new revelations of taste in me. My partner had the bourbon molasses BBQ ½ duck, with cornbread pudding and a cilantro sweet-corn salsa; a classical plate dressed in the warmth of southern comfort, languishing on the lips, aromatic and earthy.

As we left a romantic storm filled our star-lit night. This despite being pulled over by the Salida Police force for failing to operate a defective rental car, driving whilst under the influence of revelry! Yet, we did indeed hear in the not so distant mountains the charming vocals... of a fat lady singing her heart out.

The Laughing Ladies Restaurant

Please visit our Downtown Bakery, 124 F. St, for breakfast and lunch